HALLOWEEN SALE Save 50¢ per sqft on all flooring!    Use code "TREAT50" - SALE ENDS 10/31/2020
ALL FLOORING IN STOCK AND READY TO SHIP NOW!


Resource Center



Critical Advice on Asbestos in the Basement




Rebecca posted this on our post What is the best flooring for a basement?, and I thought a fuller answer than a mere dashed off comment was in order.

”Stumbled across your blog from Google and wondering if you have a suggestion for my basement. I am in the process of redoing the whole thing, but the floor is a bit of a mystery. I’m assuming it is vinyl tile down there (house was built in 1963) and there are at least 3 different layers of tile (vinyl? peel and stick? don’t know). Someone said I shouldn’t take it up because there might be asbestos,…”

 
I like your someone. When it comes to asbestos, even the possibility of it, caution is always top priority. When it comes to the possibility of asbestos, unless you absolutely know otherwise, assume that it is in there. There are no visible clues to tell you, at least not to the non-expert. With old tiling, for instance, Vinyl Composite Tile, which is safely sold today, is indistinguishable from the older Vinyl Asbestos Tile. When you are not positive about it, have the material tested before doing anything, or just treat it like it is contaminated.

Asbestos was used as a ‘binder’ in almost all resilient flooring (this includes vinyl, linoleum, asphalt, and even the mastic in which some ceramic tiles are set) until about 1985. Because it is embedded into the substance, the mere presence of material containing asbestos is not necessarily a threat to you. If it is left alone, and in most cases only walked upon, it will not release its carcinogens into the air. You should keep the activity level low, and probably keep children away from these areas, because they can tend to do, out of curiosity and playfulness, the things you do want to avoid. Asbestos fibers are released when the material is damaged or agitated.

(fortunately, he's not really removing asbestos, it's just a good 'Don't Do This' picture, in context.

(fortunately, he's not really removing asbestos, it's just a good 'Don't Do This' picture, in context.

NEVER do the following with materials containing asbestos:

  • mechanically chip
  • improperly remove
  • saw or cut
  • tear
  • drill
  • grind
  • sand
  • scrape
  • strip wax from
  • sweep
  • or dust

Even sweep and dust? Yes. Damp-mopping is your safest general cleaning option. You just want to do anything you can to prevent damaging the material. Only a well-trained professional should remove it.

If you decide to have the material inspected by an Accredited Asbestos Inspector, we offer the following advice:

1 – Use an inspector who is not connected with a company that removes asbestos, to make sure you’re getting an unbiased inspection.

2 – Vet your inspector through the Better Business Bureau, and any local agencies responsible for air pollution control and worker safety. This is where reports would be filed against them, if any needed to be done. Make sure there are no legal actions or safety violations filed against them before they work in your own home.

3 – Check their accreditation. Each individual should be able to show you proof of their accreditation, and they should not be surprised or offended when you ask to see it. When consulting the agencies above, ask whet you should look for in your state or locality.

4 – Any inspection should include both a complete site inspection, and lab analysis of materials from your home. You should expect to receive a detailed report on the locations and extant of asbestos contamination, and recommendations for handling the matter.

5 – After any work is done, have the place re-inspected.
 
 

”…and there are some spots where pieces are missing,…”

 

(not Rebecca's floor, just a good picture I found)

(not Rebecca's floor, just a good picture I found)

The issue here is how well the missing pieces were removed. Any asbestos containing material which is damaged at all, even just in spots or on edges, or if it is just flaking, must be repaired or removed professionally. Don’t get brave, don masks and glasses, and do it yourself. You may survive the process, but you will still kick a lot of this into the air, your vents, the general dust of the room. Seriously, it’s a professionals only procedure. Also, federal requirements on accreditation may be lower than your state’s. Go with the most stringent ones. Hire a certified flooring installer who has taken the Resilient Floor Covering Institute’s training seminar on asbestos removal, and then keep the following in mind:

Seal off!

Seal off!

1 – Get the full work plan in writing before anything starts. It should include all of the regulations to be followed, and the cleanup plan.

2 – Look for proper asbestos handling equipment. At the very least this should include a acronym title=”It stands for ”High-Efficiency Particulate Air” and describes a type of air filter which can remove 99.97% of all particles greater than a size of 0.3 micrometers (0.0003 millimeters).”>HEPA vacuum. Detergent should contain amphoteric, anionic and nonionic surfactants. I’ll put some details in the resources section at the bottom.

3 – The contractor should do the following:

a – Turn off your HVAC, cover any vents, and seal off the room from other areas of your house with plastic sheeting. The air within needs to be isolated.

b – Mark the work space as a hazard area, and prevent access by non-professionals until the work is fully complete. They may recommend you relocate while they work.

c – Mist the asbestos containing material before removing it, to weigh down any liberated fibers.

d – NOT break up the material into small pieces.

e – NOT track any dust or debris through your home.

'Sterilize' the area of asbestos when finished.

'Sterilize' the area of asbestos when finished.


f – Properly dispose of the material. Improper disposal is illegal, so do not do this yourself.

g – When finished with the removal, clean ceilings, walls, floors – any surfaces – with damp or wet sponges rags or mops, and the air with a HEPA vacuum. There should be no dust or debris left when they are done.

h – Before departing, workers should put all disposable cleaning materials and equipment, including the clothing in which they worked, into heavy, leak proof, sealed plastic bags labeled with appropriate hazard warnings. They must dispose of the

4 – After this job is complete, get assurance in writing from your contractor that all of the proper and legally required procedures have been followed, and expect a Clean Air Certificate, ensuring that the air in your home is safe to breathe..

5 – As we said above, you may also have an inspector, possibly your initial one, re-inspect to ensure that the work was done properly.

 
 

…and someone suggested I put concrete patch down. I would like to try a basement epoxy kit like Rust-Oleum makes, but not sure if it would stick to tile. I’m trying to do this as inexpensive and easily as possible, so any suggestions/tips are greatly appreciated!

 
Unless you have to remove your flooring (see above), the best advice usually is to put a new floor over the old one, and/or to ‘seal’ it. These allow for little to no agitation, and can safely encapsulate the offending material. You could lay down a subfloor, a functional underlayment, made of 1/4 inch plywood or some backerboard material to isolate it before installing a new floor.

As far as concrete patching, the best thing I can find about this (we do not handle concrete, you see) is that concrete patching is used to patch cracks, chips, dents, etc. in slabs of concrete, but not to fill in or level out other floor materials. When I looked up the documentation on a particular brand of concrete patch and it said on its first page, under the heading Limitations, “Do not install over substrates containing asbestos.”

There is a material called Self Leveling Compound. Its primary use is to level off floors that are not perfectly level before a new floor is installed, but if the manufacturer allows it for this purpose, it could help here as well. It would be poured right over the tiles. This issue would be with any high areas. These compounds have limits on how much you should pour down (how deep you can go), and you do not want to be left with high spots of the vinyl, which one might normally want to grind down. That you do not want.

Sealing the floor would involve coating the flooring with a sealant so the fibers cannot be released. Even this should be done only by a well trained professional.
 
 

Resources

For the booklet “Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings”

Resilient Floor Covering Institute
401 E. Jeffereon St.
Ste. 102
Rockville, MD 20850
(301) 340-7283
www.rfci.com
 
 
A guest post to our blog on Risks of Contacting Hazardous Materials During Home Renovations
 
 
And finally, a crazy technical list of terms to look for when checking that detergents have “amphoteric, anionic and nonionic surfactants”, as we wrote about above. If you trust wikipedia as a source, you can read more at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfactant

Anionic surfactants

Ammonium lauryl sulfate
dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate
perfluorobutanesulfonate
perfluorooctanesulfonate (PFOS)
sodium laureth sulfate, also known as sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES)
sodium lauryl sulfate (SDS, sodium dodecyl sulfate, another name for the compound)
sodium myreth sulfate.
…also phosphates and carboxylates.

Nonionic surfactants

cetostearyl alcohol (consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols)
cetyl alcohol
cocamide DEA
Cocamide MEA
Decyl glucoside,
Dodecyldimethylamine oxide
Glucoside alkyl ethers
Glyceryl laurate
Lauryl glucoside
Nonoxynol-9
Octaethylene glycol monododecyl ether
Octyl glucoside
oleyl alcohol.
Pentaethylene glycol monododecyl ether
Polyoxyethylene glycol alkyl ethers
Polyoxyethylene glycol alkylphenol ethers
Polyoxyethylene glycol octylphenol ethers
Polyoxyethylene glycol sorbitan alkyl esters
Polyoxypropylene glycol alkyl ethers
Sorbitan alkyl esters
stearyl alcohol

 

– – – –
David is a Writer at Floors To Your Home (.com), as well as the PPC Manager, a Marketing Strategy Team member, a Researcher, Videographer, Social Strategist, Photographer and all around Resource Jitō. In my spare time I shoot and edit video, explore film history, mix music (as in ‘play with Beatles multi-tracks’) and write non-fiction for my friends. Connect with me on W. David Lichty’s Google+

 
BUTTON - Perfect Room No Swath
 
 
Follow Team Floors To Your Home on Pinterest
Follow Me on Pinterestflooring store on Google+ Local
 


About

David is a Writer at Floors To Your Home (.com), as well as the PPC Manager, a Marketing Strategy Team member, a Researcher, Videographer, Social Strategist, Photographer and all around Resource Jitō. In my spare time I shoot and edit video, explore film history, mix music (as in 'play with Beatles multi-tracks') and write non-fiction for my friends. Connect with me on W. David Lichty's Google+

Posted in Basic Installation Tips, Customer Q & A, Vinyl Flooring
5 comments on “Critical Advice on Asbestos in the Basement
  1. Claudio says:

    First of all I want to say that I really liked your website, and you are very professional responding the questions. Last night I clarify a lot of my own questions with your suggestions, but still I would like to hear your opinion about my case in specific that differs a little bit from the ones that you already have in your website, if it is possible.

    My name is Claudio, and I am going to finish my basement, and I want to start with the floor.

    I am in a situation similar to Rebecca, the house is around 45 years old and we bought it “as is” trough the HUD housing. The only difference is that the previous owner took off all the old vinyl tiles from the basement, leaving behind the base surface concrete with some residues of glue that was used to glue the vinyl tiles to the concrete. I assume, and I am almost sure that there is asbestos, but since we are not using the basement we feel safe.
    The idea to paint the concrete is not into our options, because of the glue present on the floor at this moment, there is not possible to have a nice finish looking after painting, and of course I don’t want to sand or scrap the glue (like you said in your respond to Rebecca, it is not a good idea to do that because you don’t want to spread particles into the air). On the other hand, I was thinking to use ceramic tile which I think it might work better (not sure). Somebody in Lowes already recommended a nice product that you put on top of the “concrete with lefts overs of glue” to help for level up the floor but also will help for a better join between the concrete and ceramic tile mortar.

    For extra information: we used to have some cracks in the walls of the basement where the water got in when it rained a lot, but we fixed the outside of the house adding dirt, and exaggerating the tilt of the ground going away from the house, and so far so good (One year since then), but I am still worried for future problems with water. We don’t have a sub pump either.

    After finishing the floor in the basement, the idea is to continue with the walls and ceiling, to create a family room, laundry room, and a music studio.

    Taking all this things in consideration, I would appreciate to hear your opinion about the best solution for my basement floor (ceramic tile, vinyl, paint, etc.) and what things I should take into consideration before, during and after my project.

    Thank you very much in advance and I will strongly suggest your website to friends and family. (it is already in My Favorites)

    • David says:

      Hi, Claudio!

      First, thank you for your compliments. It makes me feel great to know that this blog might be actually helpful.

      As for your situation, as I wrote above, if you think you might have asbestos, act as if you do until you can prove otherwise. You’re doing that, and that’s good.

      The floor leveling product recommended to you is probably a very good idea. It can seal off that asbestos, and give you a level subfloor, which is necessary for almost all floor coverings. Make sure to buy it from a place which has good customer service, and if you can, take pictures with you to show the person who is advising you exactly what you’ll be covering. This will help them get you exactly the product you need, proper tools, and good tips on getting the job done the way you want it.

      As for good basement flooring options, as that linked article and its companion on bad basement floors go over, in a basement the main factor to consider is how much moisture gets into it, especially through the concrete. A moisture barrier laid under the new flooring can help, but these issues do eliminate some options.

      Waterproof vinyl planks and tiles, installed as floating floors, work well because they don’t react at all badly to moisture and temperature, and if you ever have an all out pooling of water, you can easily pull them up, solve the water issue, and then lay them right back down. No new floor to buy. Our next highest recommendation is the ceramic tile you’re looking at. Being stone, it handles moisture well, though you have to watch out for the grout. The other issue is how it feels to the feet – hard and cold – but as you have already considered a painted cement floor, you might already be comfortable with that sort of floor, so it’s a great choice. I cannot comment on paint, as we do not handle it, so I would have you ask your floor leveler sales person, and a paint store’s specialist, whether a good flooring paint can safely go over this product. If so, you may be able to go with your first choice, but I am sorry that I cannot offer any advice on that for you myself.

      For the project, I would say this. While you should choose your flooring early in the process of finishing the entire basement, so that your floor, wall and decoration choices all match, it is generally recommended to install your flooring last. All of the other projects can blemish or even damage a new floor. Paint might drip onto it. Equipment or permanent furnishings being moved around (like large cabinets, for instance) might chip or scrape it. Finishing a basement involves significantly different activities than just living in it, so you’re best to start at the top – do your ceiling first – and work your way down from finishing the walls to installing the flooring.

      I hope this is helpful, and if I’ve left anything out, please ask away!

      Thanks, Claudio!
      David

  2. Lukas says:

    For example I have tried to use leveling compounds for my house floor, and now I am really happy about it.

  3. don says:

    what products seal asbestos floor tile?

    • Meredith says:

      Good morning, Don! You’ve got a couple of options here. You can use leveling compound to cover the asbestos flooring, or you can lay a moisture barrier padding over it before installing a new floor. The key here is to NOT agitate the asbestos and risk getting the particles in the air.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>

This content comes from a hidden element on this page.

The inline option preserves bound JavaScript events and changes, and it puts the content back where it came from when it is closed.

Click me, it will be preserved!

If you try to open a new Colorbox while it is already open, it will update itself with the new content.

Updating Content Example: